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PAT
LITTLEJOHN
Director of the International
School of Mountaineering based in Leysin, Switzerland, Pat is a
man of modest character and immense achievement. Pat is perhaps
best known as creator of some of the UK's most memorable climbing
voyages on superb and virgin cliffs lurking in remote and beautiful
environments. Mention a Littlejohn route, and the word that most
often comes to mind is 'commitment'. These are truly world-class
adventure routes, often on remote sea-cliffs, usually climbed completely
on sight into the unknown.
Pat has created new routes in many areas of the
world, often at unconventional venues. Book Of Genesis in the Grand
Canyon climbed in 1978 is an early example, the first serious free
climbing in the Canyon. More recently in 1991 the first free climb
on the west face of Point John on Mt Kenya, an 11-pitch 5.12. In
the Alps numerous first free ascents of climbs such as the South
Face of the Fou. His 1995 new route on Taweche in Nepal with Mick
Fowler was an epic affair with 43 technical pitches, desperate bivvies,
little food and achieved over eight days in ultra-lightweight alpine
style. With a sense of humour, too.
Pat's approach to climbing is clearly defined.
He is totally convinced that the ground-up onsight approach is by
far the most rewarding climbing experience to be had. He has also
been prepared to speak out about the destruction of the adventure
climbing ethic in the Alps. "If we allow the sport-climbing
approach free rein in the mountains, we may wake up some day to
realize that we've sold out our unique sport for... a synthetic
substitute, offering virtual adventure where once we had the real
thing."
For more information on The International School
of Mountaineering click here.
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